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There are 3 things that constitute a change to the 1801b.
1. Small gauge inductors
2. More baffle step compensation
3. The Sonic Cap
None of these three items are monumental. The combination of all
three is not monumental. However, they do contribute to a somewhat
significant change noteworthy of the 1801b designation. |
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Small Gauge Inductors
This is the least significant change to
the 1801 crossover. I experimented with small gauge inductors in the
1801 crossover circuit where a large gauge inductor + resistor were placed.
There are a couple places in the 1801a crossover where resistors are
directly in series with inductors. Both of these locations are in parallel
with the driver. The values of the the inductors made a resistor
substitution viable. Rather than use a 14ga inductor and resistor, I use a
small gauge (very small gauge) inductor and no auxiliary resistor. This
works because the very small gauge inductor has the resistance built-in.
This implementation is very similar to the resistor wire found in older
automotive ignition systems. The resistance is built into the wire.
After implementation, I measured the frequency response of the woofer,
tweeter, and overall. I also measured the phase. Then I listened to the
results. The results were quite interesting. The measurements were virtually
identical. There was a smooth .5 db change across the MLS sweep. This change
in db is not audible. It might have even been my jig shifting
slightly. The listening experience was a little different.
When using the small inductor in the woofer circuit I noticed a slight
audible improvement. I was puzzled slightly by this. I decided to check it
again. Yep, it was slightly better. I am not totally certain why it was
better, but I can speculate. First, it could be that the DCR (DC resistance) of the small
inductor works better in the circuit. When Dennis Murphy designed the
initial crossover for the 1801 he modeled 1 ohm of resistance in this
circuit. The large inductor + resistor combination yielded about 1.15 ohms
of resistance. The small inductor yielded .86 ohms of resistance. It could
be that the speaker liked .86 ohms better. Second, it could be that the
small gauge inductor was a theoretically better resistor. The inductor has
more surface area than the resistor and should (??) dissipate heat better.
Third, it could be that I eliminated a connection when eliminating the
connection between the inductor and resistor. I believe the first reason is
the most likely cause for the improvement, but this is only a guess. I could
easily create a good marketing campaign from any of these reasons, but I
won’t. I really don’t know why it sounded slihglty better. Nonetheless, it did.
With the small inductor substitution in the tweeter circuit I noticed no
audible change. I really can't explain why, but it is nonetheless the case.
I have listened to the small gauge inductors in my own living room for
several months now, and am very happy with them. Upon mentioning the use of
small gauge inductors to Dave Elledge, he commented,
Your name is Keith and
my name is Dave, and...
Posted By: dBe
<elledges@swcp.com>
(proxys.or3.marketscore.com)
Date: 2/10 5:46p.m.
In Response To:
My name
is Keith, and I wind my own coils... (Keith Kidder)
we are in a 12-step program for audio junques.
Like Keith said, the ability to wind inductors is a useful tool.
Like Richard said, I used to do it, too. Unlike Richard, I'm gonna
start doing it again for some specialty parts in the near future.
Like Tom, I started doing guitar pickups by hand back in the '60s. It
didn't take me long to build a coil winder for pickups using a 60 rpm
motor from Grainger and a piece of chamois in an adjustable clamp for a
tensioner. Anymore I don't think I could even see 43-44 ga wire to do
this job ;-)
The ability to wind very precise coils for narrow resonance traps
using the wire gauge to control the DCR is a thing of beauty.
I'll still buy (or bribe Keith) for the big ones, though.
We are ALL nuts!
Dave
Another gentlemen of very solid knowledge affirmed my thoughts about using
small gauge inductors when resistance is desired.
The overall result is that the small gauge inductors are here to stay.
Despite their very wimpy appearance, they perform wonderfully. They provide
a slight sonic improvement in some places. They are also less expensive. It
is a win-win situation. I can only speculate about why these small inductors
work equal/better than a much more expensive component selection. There are
good reasons for many aspects of this issue. I am satisfied that the smaller
components will remain in my crossover as the design(er) dictates a need for
higher DCR in that circuit. |
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More Baffle Step Compensation
A few folks commented that the 1801a crossover sounded
slightly lean in the midbass region. Dennis and I took this to heart,
and agreed that this was a viable complaint. We heard it too. Getting this region of
response correct is a little tricky though. It requires a fair amount
of room integration.
Baffle loading takes place on a speaker much like horn
loading. The difference is that most speakers don't have horns, they
have flat baffles. The baffle loading is less significant, but present.
There is a 6db rise in response from drivers mounted on a flat baffle.
The db rise related to the size of the baffle and the frequencies involved.
As the frequency length approaches 1/4th the baffle width, a
loading will take place. The onset is gradual, and generally begins at
about 200hz. By 800 hz on most baffles, the loading is fully present.
This means that electronic means must be used to eliminate this loading.
This is fairly easy to accomplish in the crossover, but there is another
concern. It is the room.
The room walls, especially the back wall, will
theoretically and practically extend the size of the loudspeaker baffle.
This effectively lowers the onset frequency of baffle loading. For
ease of discussion I will only address the back wall. A larger
theoretical baffle lowers the frequency of the baffle loading and increases
mid-bass response. The significance of coupling between the
loudspeaker baffle and the back wall depends on the distance between the
baffle and the back wall. If the loudspeaker is closer to the back
wall, there will be more coupling. If the loudspeaker is further from
the back wall there will be less coupling.
Adding more baffle step compensation electronically in the
1801b is probably the most significant change for the 1801. The result
is that the 1801b could be placed further into the room without the need for
back wall coupling to increase mid-bass energy. It obviously
sounds slightly warmer in the mid bass. A few folks tried the 1801a
placed well into the room. The consensus was that the mid-bass
suffered an intolerable serious
drop in performance. The 1801a was slightly lean in the
mid-bass, and placing it well into the room exacerbated the lean condition.
The 1801b chops about 2db off the midrange & high frequencies. This
brings the mid-bass into a richer balance. I find that male vocals
sound slightly warmer. This is because the fundamental frequency of
their voice is more projected. This is most obvious with Andrea Bocelli.
This change is not monumental, but it is significant.
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The SonicCap
The last change is an easy one, but deserves mention too.
Henceforth, the SonicCap will be used in all 1801 crossover locations.
There are a few reasons for this. The most significant is that the
SonicCap is that good. It is clean, quiet, and simply makes music.
Since I generally don't make own colorful comments, I'll interject some from Ed Majewitz.
Ed has many years in the hifi business and copious experience. Ed's remarks pertain to an application in the
MBOW1.
Ed: "I got some Sonicaps
from Jeff Glowacki and put them in the crossover to the Hiquphon OW1. Was
a bit surprised--actually sounded better than expected. I am always
skeptical about designer caps. My experience in the past is that they
have more detail but sound "bright" and not musical. Never liked the
Hovlands or MITs. The Sonicaps sound cleaner with more detail and still
are musical.. Female voices sound much better. My daughter, who is a
musician, noticed the difference immediately. Putting the Solens back in
made the music sound distorted.."Dave: "I am not
surprised with your findings"
Ed: " The caps appear to be unimpressive--look
like white Solens. I believe they are metallized poly's and not
Film/Foil. "
Dave: "Yes, they do look unimpressive, but the value is
under the hood. In a theoretically correct 4.7uf capacitor there are 126 FEET of foil. Do you really think that copper plated lead means a
"hill-of-beans"?? Would you rather drive a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere Hemi,
or a 1977 Vette? The SonicCap is a metallized poly configuration.
You now know that not all metallized poly capacitors sound the same. Do
all cars with internal combustion motors work the same? The variables in
foil quality and metal application in a capacitor vary. You will have to
ask Jeff some specifics."
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Upgrading from the 1801a to the 1801b
I have commented on this issue with a few folks offline. I will be
sending some crossovers to Jack Giuffre for his comments. I am not
sure that a crossover swap to the 1801b is money well spent. IMO, if
it cost $50, the upgrade would be a no-brainer - do it! IMO, if
it cost $250, the upgrade would also be a no-brainer - don't do
it! Jack will hopefully provide his comments in by the end of March
2003.
The summary/cost will be thus:
There are only 2 capacitors retained from the 1801a crossover.
An upgrade from the old crossover to the new crossover will cost
$115+$10s/h. This retains 2 capacitors from the previous crossover.
If you don't have any SonicCaps and want them, it will cost $145+10s/h. This
retains only 1 capacitor from the previous crossover.
The cost reflects the retail cost of components + $15 for development.
Jack eventually provided feedback and his sentiment is stronger than
mine. I thought the 1801b change/improvement was relatively subtle.
He didn't. Jack conveyed a notable improvement in character and
quality with the 1801b crossover.
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