This is a little tidbit about how I connected
the components in my first crossover.
I initially used ring loops at the end of my
crossover components and used a steel screw/nut to attach the ring loops together. This way I
would be able to swap components as needed after assembly. There was a nasty harsh timbre
present overall, but especially in the tweeter. A wise man told me to use brass screws instead of steel
screws when attaching the ring loops. He insisted that steel screws were magnetic
(ferrous) and therefore would act as a small inductor in the signal line.
However, brass screws are non-magnetic (non-ferrous), and therefore would not
act like an inductor in the signal line. He said the difference would be most
noticeable in the highs such as the drum hat, bells etc.
This seemed like snake-oil, but I tried it. I purchased some brass
screws from the local hardware store. The brass screws and nuts cost about 12
cents each. I installed them. The difference was immediate and obvious.
I didnít even need my wifeís ears (hers are better than mine) to discern the
difference with this one. The tweeter smear instantly cleared. Highs were
crisp and clear. Metallic things sounded metallic. Violins sounded like string
instruments. The difference was big! The brass screws made about the same
improvement as replacing my Kenwood amp for a Bryston. So, if you decide to
use ring loops and screws to connect your crossover components use brass
I have recently noticed that the nuts and flanges on most terminal
cups/posts are ferrous. This is bad too. I haven't tested the
difference between 1 ferrous nut and 1 brass nut, but I convert all of my
cups/posts to brass nuts with a non-ferrous ring loops. I am sure there
is a difference, but it is likely very small. Perfection is often in the
small details and a 12 cent screw and nut are darn cheap.