My cabinets are rock solid, properly dimensioned, and have a very high WAF (Wife Approval Factor).  The details matter.  The purpose of this page is to provide some idea concerning the general construction methods of my cabinets.

Brief Description:  My cabinets have a skeleton of 3/4" MDF with offset vertical braces and a 2" porthole exiting the rear of the cabinet.  The dimensions depend on the volume.  A top & bottom dovetail adds 1 1/2" height to the cabinet.  It also adds significantly to the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor).  Also, the WAF is generally okay without speaker grills.  I put good lumber on my cabinets and don't like it covered.  Most wives agree.  The standard finish on my cabinets is 10 coats of pre-catalyzed lacquer rubbed to high gloss.  I migrated towards lacquer about 6 months ago and really like it!  Below are some early pictures of cabinets I constructed.  All of these cabinets have about 5 coats of my Watco Danish Oil brew applied.  They are obviously NOT the 1801.  They are custom cabinets make several years ago.  Nonetheless, the fundamentals in these cabinets remain very present in the 1801. 

	I employ some ultra high tech (ha) principles in my cabinets.  All of my joints fit very tight due to a good triple chip grind table saw blade from Ridge Tool.  This blade makes a very positive impact.  It leaves a clean edge and enables tight joints.  Also, there are between 40 and 50 biscuits in every cabinet.  This helps joints to line up perfectly, and adds significant strength at the joint.  MDF is very weak at the joint because it has no longitudinally grain. Biscuits correct this shortfall.
	Glue squirts out of every joint upon clamping.  Good glue coverage with clamping pressure are critical when making a good joint.   I did try Aerolite Evostick glue (aircraft/gap filling), but it didn't sound any better than plain old Elmers/Titebond.  This is likely because my cabinet joints have very very small ( if any) gaps.  Hence, the gap filling aircraft glue was overkill.  The standard baffle width for the 17liter and 22liter cabinet is 9" 1/16".
	This cabinet was built for John Hess.  IMO is perfect. There is some beautiful grain character at the base of this cabinets.  I prefer to this whenever possible.  Wood character and tight knots make a good looking cabinet.
	The joints are very tight, but there is about a 1/32nd" of glue smeared on the veneer.  I have figured out a way to eliminate this completely - very delicate sanding.
	Nothing special here, just a picture of the cabinet back.
	This is a picture of the porthole cutout.  The 1/2" radius round-over serves little purpose,  If you want it, I can do it.  If not, I'll leave the edge square.
	This picture shows the driver recess.  Very clean, and neat.
	This is a cherry cabinet with solid material on the front, top and bottom.  The sides are veneer.  The front baffle is mirror imaged set from the same plank.  None of the wood is stained, but the inner pieces are closer to the edge of the tree (sapwood).  Most  of the sapwood is unusable because of the poor wood flaws, but this piece was okay, so I used it.  I think it looks good, but others may disagree.  The holes are cut for the Seas L17, and the Seas T25-001.  These cabinets weighed 55lbs at the post office. The pink piece of "bubble gum" looking stuff in the right tweeter cutout is poster putty.  There is a small chip-out inside of the hole, but the putty will seal.
	These pictures provide a good look at the internal bracing, and the driver hole scallops.  "Scallops" result when material is removed behind the driver, but leave the screw mounting wood.  Scallops prevent a resonance inside the driver "tunnel".
	*Something that isn't readily apparent are the imperfections.   I reserve the right to reduce my price for imperfections.